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I find it easier to layout a pattern onto the wood if I sand with 220grit first. The basswood blanks I used are somewhat rough for my liking. Does anyone else find this necessary?
HI Steve,
I use the Pattern Transfer Tool for all pattern application and sanding nice and smooth before application makes a big difference.
Same is true when tracing over graphite transfer paper or drawing directly on the wood.
So I sure to agree with you on this!
MartyThere is a fellow who sells Basswood, Butternut and other woods under the name of Uncle Al. That is the smoothest material I have ever laid eyes on and would not need any sort of sanding prior to use. I know we carry it at the Woodcraft in Plano, TX. So other Woodcraft stores might also carry it.
Doug
I’ll leave Doug’s post but know that the basswood I sell in the MyChipCarving Store is always clear, clean and creamy white.
It comes from NW Wisconsin which is prime basswood country. Always northern grown.
It needs a bit of sanding with 220 grit but that’s about all.
Marty,
I am certain the you sell a high quality product, it was not my intent to disparage your products in any way. Just remarking that his are the smoothest I have seen. That statement should be qualified by saying I have not seen yours as of yet.
Doug
I’m new at chip carving but I’m a pretty decent woodworker. So I’m fluent in using hand tools. I do not sand the carving boards. I plane them by hand, using a #4 finishing plane set to a cutting depth of about 0.002″. The resulting surface is very smooth. Then I transfer the pattern or draw my own.
After the carving is done, I use the same #4 to remove the pattern marks. Depending on what I’ve carved (eg, a swirl rosette), I have to be careful not to flatten the sharp edges of my carving. But this method seems to work well for me.
Is there a down side to the way Im doing this?
Fred
Hello Fred! Smoothing the basswood surface with a finishing plane is a fantastic way to get a smooth, flat surface.
You won’t hear me mention this method because most chip carvers cannot use a plane or scraper effectively to get the results you do.
Removing leftover pattern lines in the same way would be quite challenging especially if quite a lot of the surface has been carved.
From your post you know that we don’t want to flatten the tops of the sharp ridges. I recommend using a Tombow Sand Eraser to remove any leftover pattern lines.
They do the trick and break down as they remove the lines so they don’t affect the carving.
Thank you Marty. I will go get one. I appreciate your advice.
Also, the lazy susan is sheer genius Sir!
Fred
In order to avoid possibility of grit getting on board and damaging blade edge would you recommend something like “Abranet” in 220 grit instead of sandpaper?
Glad you found the Tombow Eraser to be the best when it comes to removing left over pattern lines!
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